Hyde is a restaurant-bar that never stops surprising. Based a few hundred yards from Kensington Palace, the basement venue can't help putting a smile on the faces of its guests, serving delicious pan-Asian cuisine, creative concoctions and elating visitors with its intriguing decor. Stylish, vibrant and with a slight swagger, it definitely leaves a lasting impression.
The Venue
Based on Kensington High Street, the striking entrance of Hyde is gripping. Though the large neon sign is the first thing you notice, as you get nearer, the finer details come to life. From the patterned masonry framing the door to the portrait of a crowned figure staring directly at you, the entire setup is clearly meant to catch the eyes of passers by. The surprises continue downstairs, with a suit of armour, regal throne and elegant portrait greeting you at the reception.
The bulk of the venue is a long channel of tables, lined by a sleek cocktail bar. A dance floor peers around the corner and the warming glow of kitchen lights can be seen halfway down the room. Though largely plain in decor, the walls feature a selection of abstract paintings and classic portraits that have all been twisted out of shape. Imagine the Last Supper but with rappers and singers instead of disciples. Hyde could go further with this intriguing theme; at present, it's a bit under-cooked. The suits of armour and paintings are too sparse to really qualify as 'quirky' and instead can come across as slightly random. Whether this is possible in a squeaky clean area like Kensington is a completely different question.
The venue's sleek, stylish character is balanced by a smattering of random features and vibrant paintings.
Food & Drink
Specialising in pan-Asian fare, the food menu showcases an array of both contemporary and traditional recipes. Split into small plates, large plates, side dishes and steamed dumplings, each dish is great for sharing and, importantly, bursts with flavour as soon as it touches the tongue. To get the ball rolling, we ordered the Chicken Satay (£6), served with a peanut sauce, the Hyde Special Maki Roll (£8) and the Chili and Salt Squid (£6). The salmon and cucumber gave the Maki Roll a great crunch, while the skewered chicken satay was perfectly cooked and covered by a fiery coat of spice. But it was the piping hot squid that really lit up our faces. Crispy on the outside and with a definite kick, the squid was moreish and refreshingly light.
Next came the dumplings. Having heard that the venue had their own dumpling chef, we expected big things, and ordered a portion of the Chilean Seabass (£7). The kitchen didn't disappoint. Perfectly steamed and soft on the outside, but still holding its shape, the dumplings were exquisite, with the seabass inside delicately falling apart in your mouth. A must-try in our book. Spoiled for choice by the large plate options, we were pointed in the direction of the Plum Miso-Marinated Chilean Seabass (£25). The steamed fish came wrapped in a bright green leaf and was completely covered in a smooth, orange glaze. Similar to the dumplings, the fish crumbled when touched and really stood out on the palate.
Framing the great dishes was the bar's daring cocktail menu. In keeping with the venue's quirky side, each drink was presented in the most creative and alluring way, and was composed of an intriguing, if not bizarre, range of ingredients. Two of particular note were the Mad Hatter (£9) and the Bed Rock (£9). Stunning to look at, the Mad Hatter was served in a hollow globe, with dry ice clouding the entire drink. The balsamic vinegar offers a slightly sour note, while the ginger juice and lemon wonderfully counteracts the bitterness of the Bombay Sapphire gin. On the other side of the coin, the Bed Rock was a whisky based drink, created using double cream and a hazelnut liqueur. Thick and smooth, with clear smokey overtones, the spirit kicks in just before the double cream becomes over-powering and sickly. Both produce a smooth taste, both are definitely worth a try.
Marinated in Miso, before being steamed, the Chilean Seabass is both well-flavoured and beautifully textured.
Atmosphere
The vibe in Hyde is confusing to say the least. With a late license and DJs playing on Fridays and Saturdays, the venue is suddenly flooded with expensive cocktail dresses and beige-coloured chinos at 10pm. Given that the dance floor was located in the middle of the venue, these early clubbers were forced to walk through the restaurant area, creating a strange moment where everyone simultaneously asked themselves the same question; what sort of venue is this place? The food and cocktails were delicious and undoubtedly of the standard you'd expect to find in a successful restaurant. But by turning into a nightclub at 10 PM, Hyde rids itself of the easy going, laid back vibe that every great restaurant needs.
The cocktail menu will certainly raise a few eyebrows, composed of daring blends and creative concoctions.
Summary
Despite this questionable vibe, the restaurant side of Hyde is a winner. Each dish is bursting with taste and every cocktail truly stuns, both with presentation and with flavour. Perhaps slightly holding back with its theme, this restaurant-cum-club leads with its menu and will always offer a culinary experience full of pleasant surprises.
