The word 'Lyan' means a lot in London's nightlife circles and immediately makes you think of inventive cocktails and stunning flavours. Ryan Chetiyawardana, known exclusively as Mr Lyan, has reached the top of the city's bar scene, having been crowned a cocktail world champion and opened a handful of sleek bars across the capital. Walking to Super Lyan in Hoxton, I had a weird feeling of déjà vu; it wasn't until I got to the front door that I realised the bar was actually based in the same building as Chetiyawardana's first bar, White Lyan. Sticking to the same mantra of taking classic recipes and flipping them on their heads using strange ingredients and bizarre techniques, I could hardly contain my excitement as I walked through the front door.
The Venue
You'd be forgiven for completely missing Super Lyan. It's based on Hoxton Street, a road that's awkwardly going through the puberty of being gentrified. The bar itself sits in an old, crumbling pub-like venue that looks like it's been abandoned seen better days. The only thing pointing you in the correct direction is a Super Lyan neon sign in one of the windows. In truth, I think this scruffy-exterior look is actually part of the bar's overall charm, trying to make every guest feel like they've just stumble upon a hidden gem in East London.
After entering the building, you're immediately led down a tiled staircase to the main bar area. The first thing you'll notice is just how small the entire venue is. Though admittedly there were a few curtains and doors leading to other areas, the bulk of the bar consists of a sleek, steal-covered bar that's surrounded by three cosy seating booths. Some may see this size as a bad thing, but in my eyes, it's the perfect little set up for sampling intriguing concoctions and quirky recipes. At the same time, the decor has purposely been left bare; each booth is made out of worn leather upholstery and the dim lighting helps to conceal plain, dark walls. Make no mistake, it's definitely not a wild party bar. Instead, the venue has been decorated in order to take attention away from its physical face and shift all focus onto the cocktails created behind the bar. It's a charming, quaint venue where you can really appreciate the artistry and deep thought that has gone into every highball and crystal tumbler.
Don't be fooled by Super Lyan's humble exterior; underneath sits a secluded cocktail bar serving some of London's very best.
The Drinks
Onto the headliner of the night. Like I said, Mr Lyan is famous for adding his own personal twist to classic cocktails. The menu at Super Lyan is no exception to this. The entire cocktail list looks like a bit of a chemistry table. Each cocktail's name appears on the left of the page, with the 'hooch' and 'distillery' then listed alongside. To help anyone that doesn't know their Yaguara from their Ancho Reyes (aka me) the list also has a helpful 'taste' column, using words like 'Fruity','Fresh' and downright 'Boozy' to describe each concoction.
To get things moving, I started with a Man On Fire (£10), a sour concoction made by combining Dewar's 12-year old whisky with Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, Ancho Reyes liqueur, lemon and pine-smoked honey. Though the first sip hits you with a sharp, smoky punch, the lemon and honey start to kick in afterwards and takes the edge off the strong alcohol taste. This might have been the booze talking, but each sip was better than the last and by the bottom of the tumbler, offered an incredibly pleasant, moreish flavour that sits nicely at the back of your palate.
Next up, I thought I'd sample one of the bar's signature cocktails, the Wibble Wibble (£9). The former residents, the White Lyan bar, was famous for serving spirits and cocktails that had been distilled and mixed in the venue's own laboratory; this cocktail is a bit of a nod to those days. Made by combining Mr Lyan's own vodka with grapefruit, fresh cranberry and Bræmble liqueur, the drink's fruity taste takes over from the off, before retreating and letting the smooth vodka taste shine. Perfect on a hot day, it's smooth and goes down very easily - maybe a little too easy.
Swaying slightly, with a bit of a droopy expression on my face and a head full of dutch courage, I went big with my last order. Unfazed by the 'boozy' description, I ordered the Pillow Manhattan (£10), a cocktail with an Old Forester bourbon base and infused with two different types of vermouth, bitters and leather cherry. Now I'm not exactly a novice when it comes to drinking bourbon, but the shimmering haze hovering over the drink's surface should have been a warning; this drink blew my head off. Potent and dark, the strong flavours of the alcohol blend perfectly with the sweetness of the cherry. A belly-warming drink for a cold day, it'll definitely leave its mark on you.
Mr Lyan's Man On Fire was my standout drink of the evening; hard hitting and yet somehow smooth at the same time.
Summary
Contrast is king here at Super Lyan. That might sound a bit vague, but it's the clash of flavours and styles that helps Super Lyan stand clear above the others in its class. The energetic bartenders are never sitting still, constantly topping up drinks and shaking together some of the most complex cocktail recipes that London has to offer. Compare that to the venue's plain, minimalist interior and unimposing character, and you start to understand that every detail of this bar has been carefully thought out and pieced together. The surface of Super Lyan is already pretty impressive, but scratch a little bit deeper and you start to see the venue's real charm.
