When word got out that the HMS Victory had dropped its anchor in none other than London's heaving Trafalgar Square, it was all aboard The Admiralty to seek out this vintage ship-styled turn pubbing playground.
The Venue
Step inside to find a space of Georgian luxe that unfolds with giant, gold chandeliers suspended from the ornate ceilings and varnished woods framing each table area. Emerald green, burgondy leather benches and a bold, black bar characterise the interior of this Fuller's pub. Everything exuded regal finesse - from the grand, sweeping staircase taking you to the 'Upper Deck', to the tucked away seating hidden at the back of the restaurant. With roped banister finishes, maritime marvels and gold emblazoned writing, the grandeur of the HMS Victory has been revived to admirable execution.
A sleek interior of glowing lights and nautical touches formalise The Admiralty.
The Food & Drink
First comes the beer, then comes the nosh. Branded as a Fuller's fella, this pub is definitely a step-up from the traditional classic boozer you'll find with the regular punters propping up the bar. Even so, a round of London Pride was a must once seated on the Upper Deck (ascend the stately staircase), swiftly followed by some pints of ESB. There's no need for larking around in this joint where the beers come big and bold.
Crowning themselves as a member of the famed Ale & Pie family, it goes without saying that 4 pies (a mixture of mash and chip accompaniments) were ordered straight up. Doubling up on the Steak & ESB and Spiced Mutton, Black Pudding & Plum offerings, there was a final flourish of the London Pride Battered Cod & Chips added to the order for £12.95 a piece. The kitchen were quick off the mark with food to table in mere mouth-watering moments. Having never indulged in a Fuller's pie before, the plump crispy pastry looked perfectly placed with a generous jug of extra gravy alongside. Digging straight in, it was all chomp-tastic silence for the next few minutes as the pies were broken into and the fish forked in. Absolutely deeelicious and darn filling. Food coma ensued almost immediately.
Scrumptious fare for the gravy-guzzling pie lover (and a delightful selection of other dishes too).
The Atmosphere
Settling in to a Tuesday evening with the dark sky heavy outside, The Admiralty felt like a bright and spacious yet sumptuously cosy pub. Fresh off the opening block, the place was buzzing with families, couples, groups of cheeky chappies and all manor of people exploring this bounteous boozer. Sitting atop the Gun Deck area was far more intimate whilst overlooking the vast decking below. You can go from nautical nook to maritime monument in one swift staircase decent.
As you enter The Admiralty, a stairwell nods towards the 'Gun Deck'. Roped banisters and spiral stairs lead you down to a cavernous basement of arched exposed brickwork with a labyrinth of alcoves and dining or drinking dens. This vaulted space exudes a different atmosphere entirely. Something more befitting for the tumbler swilling gent or the lady lounging on plush leather armchairs with a charming drink in hand. A petite bar is tucked in the corner oozing cocktail appeal and a hefty spirit stock. What was an open, extravagant space above has transformed below to become a sultry lair of low lights and hushed conversation.
Comforting furnishings are paralleled by the cool, rough edges down on the Gun Deck.
The Summary
The Admiralty has survived its London voyage with no wreck to speak of. Pleasing the classical pub with beers and booze as well as a hearty, wholesome menu fit to satisfy the Sunday roaster or the mid-week feaster, The Admiralty has reimagined the vintage glamour of the HMS Victory to noble efforts. A Fuller's favourite for me.
