We're helping you get to know some of the biggest disruptors in London food and drink, from the rogue chefs and the tastemakers to the trendsetters and the hospitality history redefiners. Kicking off this series? We talk to Michelin-starred chef Adam Handling from Frog about the current state of British cuisine, and the one ingredient he couldn't do without.
Photo: Jason Alfred Palmer.
Tell us who you are and what you do.
I’m Adam Handling MBE, Chef Owner of the Adam Handling Group which includes my flagship Michelin-starred restaurant, Frog by Adam Handling, and Eve Bar in Covent Garden, pubs The Loch & the Tyne in Old Windsor and The Tartan Fox in Newquay, and Ugly Butterfly restaurant & bar in St. Ives, as well as The Frog Gallery in Covent Garden. My Group is based on ‘Sustainable, British luxury’ and that’s at the root of everything we do, whether it’s at our Michelin restaurant or at our pubs and bars.
Tell us more about Frog, and why people should visit.
Frog is my Michelin-starred restaurant in the heart of theatreland. It’s a place to really immerse yourself in a theatrical show. You’re facing the kitchen, the chefs come to your table, and you’re able to really interact with the team, especially if you’re sat at the counter by the pass. Frog is Michelin-starred luxury in an environment where you feel completely comfortable being who you are and where all elements in the restaurant are connected, to offer a truly unforgettable journey around the UK. We only use British produce in all of my restaurants and bars, so we showcase the very best ingredients this amazing island has to offer. They’re some of the best in the world and we use every single part – the snacks that you start your meal with are made from the trimmings from the main dishes, our cocktails are made by infusing leftover ingredients into our own spirits in our bar laboratory. Everything is full cycle, and most importantly, completely delicious.
If anyone is ordering just one dish at Frog, which one and why?
People don’t come for one dish because they want to have the full tasting menu experience, but one of my favourites is our ‘All About the Sturgeon’ dish. It uses the whole of the sturgeon fish - the meat after extracting the caviar is cured and then hot smoked. We then beat this through fermented cream, mix half the quantity of sturgeon fish with half the quantity of cream, then serve with a heart-shaped waffle and finish with a generous serving of Umai caviar and birch syrup. I love it because it breaks down any barriers and shows that caviar can be unpretentious and delicious.
'All About The Sturgeon' by Adam Handling.
If you’re heading anywhere after a shift at Frog, where are you going and why?
I have a few places that I love to go to but my favourites are either Kwãnt or The Connaught Bar, because they make the best drinks in London. Kwãnt does an amazing Bloody Mary and their Gibson is great too. The Connaught is another place that really understands luxury, providing a tailored experience for guests – my favourite drink of theirs has to be the no.11.
What are your thoughts on the London restaurant scene at the moment?
British food is now one of the frontrunners in the world, it isn’t what people used to remember from the seventies anymore. It’s completely different and, whilst the simple ‘classics’ like fish and chips on the beach are still available, guests also have a range of incredible British restaurants like the three-Michelin starred Core by Clare Smyth, which is British food on a par with the very best food around the world. We’re also very lucky to have some of the best farmers and suppliers in the world.
What does London’s restaurant scene have above other cities in the world?
I’ve always been such a proud advocate for British produce, and British culinary talent. We have some of the best, freshest local ingredients, and amazing chefs making pioneering moves in the culinary world. It’s a diverse and forward-thinking city, and one of the most multicultural cities in the world – meaning you can always find a high-quality version of any food style you’re in the mood for. I’m proud to be a part of it.
Finally, if you could only use one ingredient for all of your dishes for the rest of time, which is it and why?
Seaweed, because you can get umami in seaweed, and you can put it in everything from desserts to savouries. There aren’t many dishes that it can’t improve – it enhances all flavours to make them taste even more delicious.
For more great restaurants in London, check out our guide
