Our Review Of Blacklock's Sunday Roast: Just As Good As Mum's

Launched in 2013 by Gordon Ker, with the mission to bring back the humble, traditional chophouses of the late 17th century, Blacklock is now one of London’s favourite places for beautiful yet affordable steaks and chops. You’ll find these restaurants in the capital’s busiest districts, including Soho, Covent Garden, City, Shoreditch and Canary Wharf, with a recent opening in Manchester too.

I’ve been on a mission to suss out the city’s best Sunday roasts (it’s a difficult job, but somebody’s got to do it), and it's no secret that Blacklock is widely regarded as one of the top spots. So, on one crisp spring Sunday afternoon, I headed to Blacklock Covent Garden to see if they were worth their mettle.

Interior image of Blacklock Covent Garden, including roughed-up brickwalls, dark wooden tables and leather booths.

The cosy, intimate atmosphere of Blacklock Covent Garden (pictured) is perfect for a warming Sunday roast.

DesignMyNight Reviews Blacklock's Sunday Roast

After dodging tourists along Strand and heading up bustling Garrick Street, we scoped out Blacklock sitting unassuming down a quieter alley. Making our way downstairs, we entered a stylish yet unpretentious dining den; think roughed-up brick walls and industrial pipes along the ceiling, alongside warm, low lighting and old school rock n roll tunes playing in the background. As I slid into our leather booth, I eyed up the towering roasts flying out of the open kitchen - I couldn't wait.

The porks head on toast with gravy and pickles and the beef ribs with Asian salad at Blacklock.

The pig's head on toast (left) and smoked beef ribs (right) were both meaty, indulgent dishes that I highly recommend.

We kicked off with a couple of starters, including the smoked beef ribs (£9.50) - these were huge, fatty and tender, pretty much everything you want in a plate of ribs, with a zingy Asian salad that cut through the moreish fat. If you're put off by the name of the pig's head on toast (£9.50), fear not, as this is essentially like a tender pork terrine (a little like rilletes), which we drizzled in gorgeous gravy - I also loved how the sprinkle of chillis and side of pickles added a hearty tang to each bite. In between nibbles, my partner sipped his (much-needed) Beefy Mary (£9.50). This unique spin on the classic was the perfect wake-up call - spicy, rich and smoky, with added depth from the interesting inclusion of beef jus.

Keen to try everything, we both went for the All In (a sharing-style roast featuring three different meats for £27 per person). Arriving on an old-school dinner plate, which wouldn't have looked out of place at my mum's, this only added to the homely vibe of their Sunday roast. It was a warm, cosy roast that filled you with joy, featuring 55-day-aged beef rump, 28-day-aged lamb leg and 21-day-aged pork loin, all of which were beautifully cooked and juicy beyond measure. I also loved that all three meats came with complementary sauces: creamy horseradish, fragrant lamb sauce (my fave) and a sweet apple ketchup. Delightful.

The All In Sunday Roast at Blacklock Covent Garden, including meat, Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoes, carrots and cabbage.

The All In (pictured) is perfect for sharing, and comes with gravy and condiments you can add once divvied out onto your plates.

Big shoutout to the roast potatoes; these bad boys were rustic and insanely crispy, plus packed some subtle flavour from the duck fat. The carrots were deliciously buttery and soft, the cabbage slightly charred, bringing out its delicate, earthy flavour, and the cauliflower cheese? This adorable side, bubbling theatrically inside a petite Le Creuset dish, it was rich with four indulgent cheeses. But what really brought it all together was that incredible gravy - honestly, it was phenomenal (they really need to patent that recipe ASAP).

We finished off the afternoon with the white chocolate cheesecake (£7.55). I absolutely loved the way this was served table-side, with a 'say when' policy, served in a dainty grandma-style bowl. I regret not getting more, because it was that good. Creamy and light, with a gorgeous biscuit base that somehow retained its crunch, nibs of white chocolate throughout and a side of spring berry compote, it was messy, rustic and simply delicious.

Blacklock's Sunday Roast Review: Final Thoughts

I now understand what all the fuss is about; Blacklock really knows what it's doing when it comes to its Sunday roast. It doesn't try to be anything fancy - it's offering you a home away from home every Sunday, nailing all the elements of a home-style roast but... just better. Premium-quality meat cooked with skill, rustic but perfectly executed sides and all sorts of little touches, from the retro crockery to the kind and attentive staff. Also, I have to say, for the portion sizes and central location, I actually think this is one of the more affordable options out there too.

  💰 Price: £90 for two, plus service.

  📍  Address: 16a Bedford St, WC2E 9HE

  👌 Perfect for: Cosy home-style Sunday roasts.

 ⭐ Need to know: Blacklock's restaurants are popular, so make sure to book ahead.