As a former E1 and E2 resident, I’ve seen this pocket of London completely transform over the years: long-standing watering holes now sit side-by-side with towering newcomers to the scene. But a swish hotel and restaurant that really caught my eye since it opened in 2019? Meet Mama Shelter, nestled between Shoreditch and Bethnal Green.
Fun little touches with a colourful twist.
For those of you who are familiar with Hackney Road, or have been to the nearby Sebright Arms, Boxpark or Natural Philosopher, you may have seen this haunt on your travels. It’s all painted black which means it stands out in all the good ways: stylish, beautiful and effortlessly cool. It just oozes chic from the get-go. Also, I’m not sure how it’s possible, as the pictures are absolutely stunning, but it looks even better in real life.
As you wander in, you’re struck by the kitsch decor, red pop-art carpet and retro arcade games including table football. This ain’t no ordinary hangout, you come here to have serious fun. We dined in the relaxed garden terrace which was a bright, airy space with the bar as the main centrepiece. A cover of black and white stripes gave us Amalfi Coast vibes, while we adored the eccentric little touches from the terracotta pots, ukuleles, baskets full of lemons and giraffe lighting through to the lush plants and vintage plates. We melted into the comfiest of cushions and bopped along to nostalgic RnB bangers (classic millennial behaviour) as the friendly waiting team gave us their suggestions on what to order.
Your lush oasis awaits...
We started our evening with two Mama Shelter cocktails, very popular with the crowd here. The Pornstar No.2 (£12) looked just like sunrise: golden, marmalade-like tones with fizzy passion fruit foam. My date loved it so much, she ordered it twice. I opted for the Mangifera (£10), a heady mix of Olmeca Altos tequila, Vida Mezcal, grapefruit and London Essence Co. soda. Decorated with a delicate dried orange slice, it was a little taste of Mexico.
Starting out life in Paris, Mama Shelter has now gone global, with hotels everywhere from Rio de Janeiro to Prague. Dubai is also planned for winter 2023. The menus pay homage to each city, while staying true to their French roots, and this couldn’t be more apparent than in our next dish. The London Fields sourdough with truffled Brie de Meaux (£11.50) was both crispy and soft: a perfect match when smothered in the herby yet fruity spiced pear chutney. We could have eaten much more of it, it was delicious. The carb fest continued with the mac & cheese (£15) and it honestly felt like a hug in a bowl. So comforting. Although, the poached egg was slightly too hard for me, plus I would have liked a bit more truffle, but all in all, gorgeous, especially the crunchy breadcrumb topping.
Pinky promise you'll have a cocktail or two with mama.
My date demolished the Shetland Moules Marinière (£17.50) in record time. As she slurped the thick, creamy, Nduja-infused sauce, I heard mutterings of pleasure, notably when mopping it up with the crispiest frites in town.
To close our evening, I asked the waiter to surprise me with our final cocktail, and let me tell you it did not disappoint. In Love With Charlie (£11) was a delightfully playful, sweet tipple combining Sipsmith sloe gin, Crème de Pêche and lemon, dusted in candy. Perfection.
The DesignMyNight Digest
A far cry from the stuffy, samey hotel restaurants, Mama Shelter is here to inject a bit of joy into your social life. It’s clear to see that community/togetherness is important, from the sharing plates and hearty favourites to the long wooden tables ideal for group feasts. We can see why their lively brunch is so popular on Saturdays, you can’t help but feel happy when you come here. And if that wasn’t enough? Their new cocktail menu is out now. We’ll see you there.
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💰 The damage: £89 excluding service. 📍 The location: 437 Hackney Road, London, E2 8PP. 👌 Perfect for: Putting your feet up after strolling around Columbia Road Flower Market. ⭐ Need to know: Wannabe crooner? Belt out all the hits at their very own karaoke rooms. |
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