Kyoto-Style Kaiseki: Our Review Of Roketsu In London

It’s no secret that there are a lot of Japanese restaurants in London. I for one find myself inundated with options when it comes to finding a place for California rolls, or a cool ramen spot where I can slurp comforting noodles.

I’ve experienced my fair share of omakase over the years, however, I’ve never tried kaiseki. Served in a set of sequences and meticulously crafted to reflect the changing seasons of Japan, it’s regarded as one of the highest forms of dining and began curated as a meal for Zen monks before traditional tea ceremonies, hundreds of years ago.

Since its opening in 2021, Roketsu remains the only authentic Kyoto-style kaiseki restaurant in London. Most chefs trained in the art of kaiseki tend to stay in Japan, but proudly at the helm of this gem is Daisuke Hayashi, who trained under the seven Michelin-starred Yoshihiro Murata, chef-owner of the famous Kikunoi restaurant in Kyoto. He brings his modern and progressive approach to cooking to his first major eatery in the UK and I was incredibly excited, while slightly apprehensive, to dine there on a cold winter evening in January.

Downstairs features a lounge for a more casual affair, whereas The Chef's Table is reserved for kaiseki.

DesignMyNight Reviews Roketsu In Marylebone

My partner and I were promptly greeted by our courteous and knowledgable host for the evening then led through sliding wooden doors to The Chef’s Table, a room on the ground floor which featured a bespoke counter made from raw hinoki wood, spanning just over seven metres and positioned opposite the kitchen. We were the only pair there, which heightened the intimate experience already set by the intricate, minimalist architecture that surrounded us, designed by Nakamura Sotoji Komuten (famed for a specific Sukiya style).

We were to try the nine-course set kaiseki menu (£190 per person) alongside sake and wine pairings (£95 per person), and began with a bottle of sake exclusively sourced from Hayashi’s mentor’s restaurant, Kikunoi. It was delightfully sweet and smooth and was to pair perfectly with the rich umami flavours and dashi-based dishes we were about to consume.

For goodness sake: the drinks were immaculately paired with the intricate dishes. 

Before starting with the sakizuke course (sekihan-mushi, red bean rice, sea urchin, spinach, bekko-an and soymilk skin), I felt incredibly self-conscious about my table manners. There’s an etiquette that comes with dining in such a traditional, special place, such as only wiping your hands with the warm towel you’re presented with, and never waving your chopsticks about, no matter how inevitably gleeful you are in response to your first bite. Proceedings began with familiar notes of saltiness and a delicate dab of wasabi that, for a typically eye-watering addition, was subtle and married the flavours together.

This was only a preview of the unfamiliar but welcomed journey we were about to embark on, as the hassun course - a wooden box of seasonal delights reflecting good health, good luck and prosperity of children to name a few - arrived.

My eyes locked immediately with the crispy, caramelised ones of the small sardines looking back at me. I popped these in my mouth nervously only to discover that, after devouring a quail egg wrapped in conger eel (respresenting the eye of the dragon), herring roe, and a miniature omelette too, these were my favourite components. The soy and sugar combined made it taste like an addictive table snack you’d find yourself reaching for continuously before accidentally consuming the whole bag.

Chef Hayashi hand draws the images for Roketsu's menu.

Other standout dishes included the Cornish lobster which was presented to us proudly before being taken out the back and ‘transformed’ into sashimi. It came with kimi-jyoyu - a creamy egg yolk soy sauce that's the only recurring element on the menu due to its popular demand. I adored the shizakana course, which was highlighted by our host as the main dish. It was a hot pot presented on a gorgeous emerald green, ceramic hob that you could control the temperature of.

The broth was surprisingly sweet and provided a consoling warmth, all while feeling ridiculously healthy due to its reliance on unami flavours to provide salt as opposed to additional sodium. Cubes of tofu were soft and silky, and the red mullet was a meaty and welcome inclusion.

Considering nothing was overly sugary on the menu, it came as no surprise that our mizumono course (the dessert) was comprised of refreshing fruit jelly alongside a tart, pink grapefruit sorbet. It was the perfect end to a stunning and decadent meal that opened my eyes to the rituals of kaiseki.

Overall: Roketsu In Marylebone

I’ve never adored a tuna so fatty that melted like butter in my mouth, and experiencing grilled mochi in soup, giving it a dumpling-like texture, was a real highlight. The eye-watering price tag highlights how special this sort of cuisine is and why it should be reserved for special occasions. My dinner at Rokestsu is one I’ll remember for a while and one that I feel fortunate enough to have experienced without having to travel 15 hours across the world.

Hungry? Check out our guide to the best restaurants in London.