I started watching Gossip Girl a few months ago, more than 10 years after the ‘xoxo’ hype. Although I was slightly late to the party, I got my next Chuck Bass fix by watching Chalet Girl. The reason for my somewhat unneccesary overshare is because there’s a dramatic scene filmed at The Dorchester. It’s notably one of the most famous hotels in London, and it’s packed like a chef’s pantry with history. It (and its three restaurants) has had many transformations since opening in 1931, but fast forward to 2024, and one is named The Grill by Tom Booton. An Essex-born chef, he’s the first in history to have his name in conjunction with the iconic restaurant.
The Grill by Tom Booton went through a lavish refurbishment in 2019, which explains why it looks very different to the dramatic scene I spoke of in Chalet Girl. Tucked away to the right as you walk past the grand marble centrepieces and smiling reception team with pearls for teeth, you’ll see the entrance to said restaurant. The open-plan space is centered with an eye-catching chandelier that revolves around the room like a ballerina would a jewellery box. The statement hand-blown gold Murano glass is almost baffling in its beauty, but pull your eyes from the hanging spectacle, and elsewhere you’ll see more gold accents, gilded wall panels and antique mirrors. The kitchen counter is another nice touch for curious diners. A seat here give you a front row seat to the team at work.
We started our meal with some items from the snack section. The fried shimejis (£8) flaunted powerful spices in the dense batter that, when dipped in the XO sauce, sang like a church choir. The mackerel taco (£6) was a daintier, two-bite job. Silver slithers of fish were alive with dashi and shiso, placed in one crispy wafer-thin taco. The concept at The Grill champions sharing modern British cuisine so this was only the opening chapter to our culinary experience. Beef tartar (£26) from the small plates section of the menu was served with a bouncy blazing orange confit yolk and a sundial of crunchy radishes, the glazed lobster raviolo (£28) was a bold combination of sea flavours with a tangy bisque infused with tomato chutney, but the chicken and mushroom pie with mash and hispi cabbage (£38) was something of a masterpiece. A shiny glazed pie in a golden pastry opened up like a steaming purse of goodness. If you order this, don’t go without sides. The BBQ greens with pistou blazed our taste buds with smoky charcoaled flavours. Dessert had hums of retro influence that are all the rage this year. The red velvet soft serve with cookies and mascarpone cheesecake (£12) was a sure ticket, giving us a sugary high to end our leisurely Saturday lunch.
The DesignMyNight Digest
The end of my meal at The Dorchester was similar to the finale of Gossip Girl: both left me craving more. As The Dorchester approaches its 100-year anniversary, the safe gamble of popping Booton’s name above the restaurant's door was a smart move. The chef has changed classic dishes we all know and love so they come flourished with modern twists, creating uplifting combinations that are new yet familiar. The wine pairings were a lovely touch to our Saturday outing with a glass of buttery Château Montelena Chardonnay 2020 living rent-free in our minds that entire weekend. The atmosphere doesn’t carry the stuffy or snooty ambience you might expect, either. I can honestly say we dined at ease with exceptional service at the heart of the operation. What did stump me on my visit is the current set menu that's running six days a week. You can get three courses for a bargain price of £35. Considering the chicken pie was £38, I suggest you pop on a pair of your finest Asics, and run, don't walk to The Grill by Tom Booton.
💰 The damage: £174 for two cocktails and a three-course tasting menu. 📍 The location: 53 Park Lane, London, W1K 1QA 👌 Perfect for: An upmarket meal in iconic surroundings. ⭐ Need to know: The £35 lunch menu is incredible value for money - it runs on Saturdays if you can't make it midweek. |
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