The Tandoor Chop House faced something of an uphill battle when they invited me to their recently opened restaurant. After all, I've grown up eating authentic tandoori dishes cooked by various family members, who themselves had these recipes passed down to them by older generations. Worsening the outlook, I brought my mother along, who's been cooking traditional North Indian recipes for longer than she'd care to admit. But much to my pleasure, the Tandoor Chop House left us amazed. Charming and comfortable, it presents perfectly balanced dishes and tender cuts of meat, served with a welcoming smile.
Venue & Atmosphere
Nestled on a side road just off The Strand, the Tandoor Chop House is modest in size, with a simple sign and neutral tones colouring the restaurant front. But as soon as you step inside, you're hit by a wave of exotic smells, loud sounds and intriguing sights. The venue has purposely been kept bare, with exposed brick walls, simple furniture and Edison bulbs providing a dim haze of light. The open kitchen is the first thing that catches the eye, sitting at the back of the venue. Designed with huge clear windows and shining metallic material, great emphasis is placed on the three tandoor ovens, from which the chefs can be seen pulling out huge skewers of grilled meat and fluffy naan bread.
The atmosphere is made up of a clash of cultures. Mirroring the restaurant's mix of tradition and contemporary influences, the air is heavy and characterised by a mix of bass-heavy minimal house music and a subtle masala smell. When you add this all together, you find yourself taken by surprise and excited by the promise of the meal.
The simple decor and neutral colours help to balance out the venue's laughter-heavy air, creating an ideal casual dining setting.
The Food
Onto the main event. To get the ball rolling, the snacks list offers an array of small plates that are each great for sharing. The sheesh kebab roll (£5) was a particular favourite of mine. Served on a light piece of naan bread, the kebab came with a coriander and mint sauce, before being topped by a handful of sweet pomegranate seeds. The lamb itself was spicy but didn't lose its distinctive flavour, while the smooth sauce and bursts of sweetness provided by the seeds helped to tame the dish.
Following swiftly along, the main tandoor dishes were brought out, piping hot and accompanied by a noticeable smoky aroma. The Lasooni Paneer (£11) (masala-seasoned Indian cheese) was a real treat, though on the milder side of things in terms of spice. But no such problem existed for the Green Masala Pollock (£12) or the House Tandoor Chicken (£14). The fish crumbled wonderfully as soon as it came in contact with your fork. The green masala was evenly spread throughout the fillet and ensured that each mouthful created a balanced sensation on the palette. In contrast, the chicken was much sharper and immediately washed a wave of heat with each bite. The hearty thighs had clearly been marinated for a while in bright red masala. Though the spice was intense and the coal-fired tandoor oven had given the dish a distinctive smokiness, the accompanying mint sauce again calmed each mouthful; flavoursome but certainly not overburdening. Both the fish and the chicken were perfectly cooked and mercifully held onto a surprising amount of moisture.
Tandoor dishes are best eaten by themselves, but to really test the chefs' skills with this oven, we ordered two different naans; one was covered in golden butter (£2.50) while the other was slathered with a green chilli, garlic and cheese sauce (£3). Both were light and smooth enough to work well with the grilled main dishes.
The mint sauce works well with the chargrilled, smokey flavours and heat of the masala.
Summary
The Tandoor Chop was delightful and left both us seasoned Indians fit to burst. We had been served an exquisite meal full of tastes that, unlike most Indian dishes you'll eat, were restrained just at the point of becoming overpowering. Have no mistake, this is an intense environment. From the ovens bellowing large amounts of smoke to the frivolous chatter and laughter hovering over everything, this is not the place for a calm dinner. Constantly abuzz and carefree, there are few casual dining restaurants that manage to capture such a high level of authenticity.
