Fitzrovia is an area that always makes me blush. Every time I walk past the cosy cafes, niche designer boutiques and beige home stores, I always tell myself that this will become my regular stomping ground when I'm a bit older. Then I check my bank balance, think of Brexit and realise that I'm still a few centuries decades away from calling myself a Fitzrovian. But putting my delusions of grandeur to the side for a sec, I was chomping at the bit to try out Foley's Fitzrovia, a pan-Asian restaurant and bar that's made waves with its seasonal food menu.
The Venue & Atmosphere
Rounding the bend on Foley Street, the first thing you'll see is the little street-side kiosk window. Laughing licensing laws in the face, Foley's shuns the conventional front-door face and instead has opted for huge sliding windows from which they can serve cocktails to passersby. Being a sunny Thursday evening, Foley's doorstep was packed with after-work drinkers and locals.
As we pushed our way through the crowd, we were blown away by the restaurant's interiors. It might look tiny on the outside but the venue really opens when you step inside. Spread across two floors, it's been decorated with a sort of rustic, polished metal vibe. The cracked exposed brick walls, Edison bulbs and unfinished surfaces clash nicely with the sleek set up of the candle light, shiny cutlery and snow-white menus on each table. Head downstairs and you'll find an open kitchen, where chefs are busy battling sizzling pans and flames that kiss the ceiling. Complete with potted plants and vintage art pieces mounted on the walls, the decor is hard-hitting and creates a vibe that balances sleek elegances with rugged character.
The oft-seen one-two combo of exposed brick and hanging Edison bulbs goes nicely with the venue's simple furniture.
The Food & Drink
Despite calling itself a pan-Asian restaurant, you'd be forgiven for not quite placing a steady finger on Foley's theme. After all, the chefs have their fingers in so many different pies. But despite this culinary island-hopping, all the dishes work well together to create a fusion feast that packs a punch.
To get the ball rolling, we ordered a few classic cocktails that had all had all been given an Asian twist. My gin-loving girlfriend dove head first into the English Garden (£9), a sharp concoction made using Portobello Road gin, elderflower, cucumber, apple juice and egg white. Despite bursting with flavour, her cocktail might as well have been a warm, sugar-free Capri Sun when compared to my Happy Days (£13.50) drink. Using Elyx vodka as a base, the drink twirls together pink grapefruit juice, agave syrup, ginger juice, bitters and pineapple juice, and is served in a giant, hollowed-out golden pineapple that could have once been a mantle-piece in someone's living room. Tasting similar to a pina colada, the ice-cold drink was smooth but had a bit of a sting at the end of each sip, thanks to the sharp edge of the grapefruit and ginger. It's a must in my book.
Following hot on the tails of our cocktails, our small plates were quickly placed in front of us. With a little nudge from our waitress, we went down the road of a tapas-style, sharing feast. The leek and potato bhaji (£5) was the perfect starting dish; crisping and firm, the salt-and-spice heavy batter created a moreish flavour that went well with our iced cocktails. Likewise, the lamb doner tacos (£7.50) stood out thanks to its well-balanced, lingering tastes. The lamb itself was incredibly tender and fell apart as soon as it was touched, but the entire dish really shone when all the sauces, vegetables, tortilla bread and meat are eaten together.
Describing the food as 'fusion' doesn't do justice to the creativity and versatility of Foley's food menu.
The soy-glazed steak (£13) was thinly sliced and served on a bed of dark sauces, offering a dark, salty taste thanks to the generous soy glaze. But without a doubt, it was the grilled octopus (£11) that stole the show. Now I'll admit, my opinion might be a bit biased given that I blindly order octopus as soon as I see it on any menu. But that said, this dish is special. Framed by the sharp flavours of the homemade sriracha sauce and the black sesame mayo that covered every inch of the bowl, the crunchy bok choy and soft, grilled octopus added a clash of textures into the mix that made every forkful better than the last. Something has gone terribly wrong in your life if you choose to overlook this gem.
Perhaps the biggest surprise of the night - and perfectly summing up why Foley's is so damn charming - was the smoked caramel and bacon ice-cream (£5). The creaminess and sugar eruption of the ice-cream was cancelled out by the salty flavour of the bacon crumbs that were sprinkled on top of each scoop, leaving behind an enhanced, smokey caramel taste. Don't get me wrong, it's weird, but wow does it work.
The grilled octopus ticks all the boxes; who can say no to crunchy pok choy and tender octopus?
Summary
Much like the names of Beyonce's kids, Foley's food menu shouldn't work but somehow does. Maybe not as unapologetic and downright fierce as Mrs Carter, the menu's sheer range of flavours and daring combinations is enough to excite any foodie. But where it really shines is the fact that all the drastically different dishes go so well together. Like a jigsaw of triangle pieces that somehow make a circle, Foley's really surprised and baffled me. It takes courage and balls to pull off something as bold as this; the team deserve all the credit for nailing it.
