Another Success From Middle Eastern Chef Eran Tibi? We Review Kapara Soho

Israeli chef Eran Tibi has made quite a stir in London with the Tel Aviv-inspired menu at his original restaurant Bala Baya, and after all the good things I'd heard about his cooking, his second venue Kapara was calling to me. 

Just a stone's throw from Tottenham Court Road station, you enter this stylish Middle Eastern restaurant through the pretty courtyard that connects a number of bustling venues, creating a lively atmosphere before you even step through the door.

Kapara Soho Review | DesignMyNight

Kapara Soho reviews all agree on one thing - the absolutely stunning decor.

The good vibes continue inside the restaurant, as even for a Wednesday night this place was packed. We were led over to a secluded table in the corner, and as I walked through the sophisticated space I was wowed by the gorgeous peach-coloured decor and luscious green plants hanging from the walls. We were seated under glowing yellow lights, close to the beautiful bar on the back wall that flaunted golden shelves full of spirits and elegant chandeliers hanging above it. This was contrasted by the smaller, more intimate dining area downstairs, decked out in dark, sultry furnishings and low lighting, facing the open kitchen below us.

Just as well thought out as the interiors is the Kapara drinks menu, spanning across three whole pages of their pink, leather-bound booklet. What intrigued me most was their selection of gazoz - a Turkish variety of fizzy lemonade that can be made into all kinds of sweet, fruity blends. These were available as mocktails or as boozy versions, and I opted for the lemon and rose concoction mixed with elite arak (£13). This potent spirit gave the drink a strong aniseed flavour, which complimented the citrus taste well but was possibly slightly too overpowering. My dinner date opted for a Limonana (£15), a sugary and slightly sour mix combining vodka, apple liqueur, lemongrass and coconut - with blue spirulina to give it a bright colour.

Kapara Soho Menu | DesignMyNight

There's so much to choose from on the Kapara London menu.

The Kapara menu is all about sharing, with small plates inspired by Tunisian, Syrian, Israeli and Greek cuisines - all of which have directly influenced chef Eran Tibi. There's a huge choice of enticing eats, so we spent some time narrowing it down to the three each that we were recommended to select. The first to arrive was the hummus (£11), a creamy, nutty dip that was topped with a sticky aubergine relish and cardamom salsa, as well as a stack of crispy fried chickpeas that added a nice crunch to the smooth consistency. This was served with two thick, fluffy pitta breads straight out of the oven and made for the perfect starter. At the same time, we were presented with the aubergine mess (£18), which was blackened and shredded - topped with tahini, pomegranate molasses and lychee to create a sweet and savoury taste. The aubergine was so tender that it also seemed like more of a dip than a solid dish, and it paired beautifully with the bread as well.

Next up was the wood fire leeks (£14), perched on top of dense, chewy sweet potato dumplings. They were coated in a harissa butter emulsion that was mixed with a fiery chilli oil, and the bold combination of flavours made this my favourite dish of the evening. We also decided in on the chicken oyster thigh (£21) - crispy, sticky chunks of tender meat covered in a harissa and orange glaze and served on a bed of burnt chilli aioli with kimchi. 

Kapara London Restaurant | DesignMyNight

Don't miss out on the homemade gazoz cocktails.

We finished up with a couple of side dishes, and first up was the tatties and cream (£11): thick wedges of smoked pink fur potato doused in sour cream blended with butternut and horseradish that added a hearty, carby element to our meal. Contrastingly, the tenderstem and shoots (£12) provided a hit of freshness to round off the feast nicely. These crunchy greens were coated in miso and topped with sesame seeds, served chilled - though we both agreed that these would have been better hot. 

The DesignMyNight Digest

Kapara toes the line expertly between hedonistic Soho venue and authentic Middle Eastern restaurant, with a clear personal influence from the chef in the menu. From the homemade gazoz to all the unique herbs and spices used in the beautifully presented small plates, Tibi pays homage to his upbringing in Tel Aviv while appealing to bustling London crowds. The three dishes per person were more than enough to satiate our appetites and we left feeling suitably stuffed, and I would definitely return for the atmosphere alone - not to mention the impeccable food.

  💰 The damage: £115 for two, excluding service charge.

  📍  The location: Unit 2, Illona Rose House, Manette Street, W1D 4AL.

  👌 Perfect for: Group sharing meals.

 ⭐ Need to know: Kapara is owned by the chef behind Bala Baya.

 

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