If anywhere is synonymous with London’s wild decadence it’s Quaglino’s in Mayfair. The name alone hints at stories of Champagne-popping, famous faces late-night-rollicking and London’s smart set causing havoc. First opening in 1929, Quaglino’s has been patronised by everyone from The Mountbattens and Evelyn Waugh to Princess Diana. Things have calmed down a bit now, and in 2014 the restaurant was reopened following a £3 million refurbishment by D&D; yes, it still serves its iconic seafood dishes but it’s now becoming more approachable with additions such as a three-course set menu for £30.
Venue
Perhaps it’s the completely mad interiors that have cemented Quaglino’s place in the London hall of fame, and D&D have remained loyal to the original extravagance of the building. The restaurant room is huge, a grand, Titanic-like ballroom filled with white-clothed tables around which waistcoated waiters dance and dodge. The crowning glory of the restaurant is the ‘W’ shaped ceiling, which distorts the room and adds to the sense of being far removed from the outside Mayfair streets.
An art deco golden and amber staircase leads down to the bar which sits in the centre of the room with a glowing worktop topped with fresh flowers bursting out of goblet-like vases. Everything is big and everything is brash, if you’d told me that we’d gone back to the ‘90s, I wouldn’t have been particularly surprised, but then that’s Quaglino’s charm; it’s loud but it’s got something to shout about.
The bar is upstairs and is dark and cavernous compared to the openness of the downstairs restaurant. Leather sofa seats line the sides and the lighting is a low-purple, with lots of corners perfect for whispering secrets.
The art deco staircase leading into the restaurant.
Food and Drink
The A La Carte menu at Quaglino’s is expensive, as in ‘I’m not eating for the next month’ expensive. As part of their rebrand, they’ve created a set menu meaning you can have a taste of fancy without extending the overdraft again, with three courses for £30. Quaglino’s seafood has been seducing diners for decades and it’s still just as good today. The Earl Grey cured salmon, apple gel, salted lemon infusion and keta caviar was simple but so incredibly tender and soft the fish pretty much dissolved in my mouth. The tuna steak with salsa verde was served rare and was similarly tender with the salsa adding a sweet zing to the fish.
There was a good choice of meat dishes including a comforting confit duck leg with pickled cherries and kale that offset the richness of the meat. The venison tartare was in a gooey oyster emulsion and while the meat was excellent, there was an overpowering onion flavour.
Any man who can recommend a good cheese will always have a place in my heart, and our waiter knew his way round a cheese board. The stronger the better and his recommendation of Epoisse (apparently the fourth smelliest cheese in the world) was a dream - squidgy, strong and the perfect end to my evening.
If you’re feeling really plush, have a cocktail in the bar upstairs. The Apollo (£12.75) was almost luminous it was so blue and topped with gold-sprayed dragon fruit and orange gooseberry. Wild and Beautiful (12.75) was a smoky strange concoction with candyfloss which we were encouraged to melt into the alcohol.
Some of the cocktails served at the first floor bar.
Atmosphere
Quaglino’s has a sparkle in its eye; this is, after all, the place in which Princess Diana snuck through the kitchens to join a party and which was referenced as a lunch spot in Ab Fab. Nowadays it’s less royalty and more middle-aged professionals but the restaurant still has a few tricks up its sleeve.
Just as we were tucking into the cheese, the curtains of the stage rolled back to reveal three glamorous singers, a cellist and a drummer, who began performing upbeat and jazzy covers. The waiting staff were suited and booted but were both incredibly attentive while being charmingly friendly. It may be fancy with a capital ‘F’ but Quaglino’s still knows how to show its guests a good time.
The bar in the centre of Quaglino's restaurant.
Summary
Quaglino’s may not be as rock and roll as days gone by but it’s still a great night out and if you’re looking for somewhere to go for a special occasion then the set menu is a great taste of the finer things in life at an affordable price. The art-deco theme is completely unique and inspires everything, from the cocktails which are works of art to the architecture of the building itself.
