Apothecary Revisited: The Shoreditch Izakaya Has Done It Again

Last year, I visited Apothecary in Shoreditch, a slick Izakaya-style haunt that takes inspiration from Tokyo’s trendy taverns. I sampled many of their beaut Japanese-inspired cocktails and small plates (leaving very comfortably stuffed, and maybe a little tipsy…). But I’d heard on the grapevine that they were releasing a new menu this August, so at my first chance, I headed over to give it a good whirl.

You can't deny that this place really looks the part.

The Charlotte Street watering hole is indisputably stylish – like so many other of East London’s jaunts, but somehow just… cooler. Round, emerald leather booths and shoji-esque wooden partitions add an element of Japanese sophistication, while the carefully placed, luscious plants create a calming ambience. And the menu? It showcases a range of culinary techniques; think Hirata buns, tempura, robata grill, sushi, raw meat and fish, as well as a few signature large plates. Everything comes as and when it's ready, with the dishes being perfect for sharing tapas-style.

While we scanned our eyes over the saliva-inducing selection, we kicked things off by ordering a few drinks. My partner went for the Zen Garden (£11.50), a refreshing and clear, martini-style concoction that married Roku gin, cordial (green tea, lime and shiso) with salt minerals. I had the All Fun, No Guilt (£8), a non-alcoholic mix of Lyre’s American Malt, Aperitif Rosso and Italian orange. I just want to know... how did they make it taste so boozy while being free of? What an absolute teetotal treat.

Everything at Apothecary is served looking pretty as a picture.

While we sipped away, enjoying the fun disco and hip hop hits in the background, the blackened salmon and smoked tiger prawns (£33.50) arrived. Two fat slabs of freshly prepared fish came accompanied by a couple of large, juicy helpings of shellfish, as well as a big dollop of wasabi and a pile of fragrant pickled ginger. After chomping happily away on this, the rib-eye steak (£35) made its mark. You know when something is just so delicious neither of you speak for a while, you just chew in awe? Well, that happened. It was juicy and rare yet still had a dark, caramelised exterior, with a teriyaki dipping sauce and a side of nori fries. The meat was melt-in-the-mouth and - I'm not gonna lie - we thought over the last slice. And on the side, we had a hefty bowl of chilli edamame (£4.50), because health is wealth after all.

Next up, the Japanese fried chicken bun (£6). A serving of chicken karaage amplified with spicy siracha mayo, tangy kimchi and pickles, this was a heavenly little bite. My partner also ordered the slow-cooked pork belly bun (£6), cradled among fragrant gochujang and lime mayo, as well as pickles and lettuce for a bit of freshness. While I didn’t actually try it (I was saving myself for what was next to come), his beaming face as he devoured it said it all.

This Japanese restaurant in Shoreditch recommends you order three to four dishes per person.

We then went for a couple more drinks; my order was the Oolong Way Round (£6.50), a long beverage that mixed apricot and oolong cordial, citrus stock, ginger syrup and soda. It was a bit like an East Asian, non-alcoholic twist on your Aperol spritz, and I savoured every sip. My partner went for the TDHS (£11.50), which was fresh and sophisticated, combining Havana Club 3 and 7 with Punt e Mes vermouth, apple and fennel syrup, lemon and ginger ale.

Our next three dishes arrived together, and I felt like a kid in a candy shop – I just couldn’t wait to sample them all. The seabass ceviche (£12.50) was perfectly cured, in a small pool of almost-fruity sauce, topped with green shoots and corn. But the sushi – oh they were just so good. We opted for the spicy tuna (£11), with avocado, cucumber, spicy miso and sesame, as well as the salmon avocado (£10) rolls, which paired avocado with mayo and furikake. While simple, they were executed beautifully. The rice was fresh, the fish generous and the flavours exceptional. The portions were actually pretty huge too, with about eight rolls of each.

The DesignMyNight Digest

I'd come to Apothecary this time around to test out the latest additions to the menu; the large plates. And what I found is that although the smaller dishes are perfect for nibbling on while you get stuck into the snazzy signature cocktail list, these main-style creations are ideal for those who fancy a full dinner experience.