When it comes to cocktail bars, London spoils us for choice. On every corner, whether we’re hopping out of neon-lit bodegas in Soho or slinking through intimately lit dens in Dalston, where we can only just about see our espresso martini in front of us, there’s always a bar calling our names. And on a crisp Thursday evening, that place for me was KOL Mezcaleria in Marylebone.
If you’re into your food, then you might’ve heard of the name before as the agave and mezcal-focused watering hole resides down a spiralling staircase, underneath the Michelin-starred KOL, a restaurant by chef Santiago Lastra that happens to be the 17th best in the world as of 2024.
DesignMyNight Reviews KOL Mezcaleria
My friend and I were seated in the corner of a rustic-looking room, with cool, understated lampshades hovering over individual tables like spotlights. Masks and ram skulls were fixed to stone walls, and succulents decorated the back bar, which was lined with an impressive selection of small-scale producers and independent distillers from Yucatán to Jalisco.
The mezcaleria is overseen by group bar manager Matthias Ingelmann, and the carefully crafted cocktail menu puts the spirit front and centre, drawing inspiration from Mexican drinking culture and seasonal British ingredients. The playful menu pairs two ingredients together, such as sorrel and hops, to create two different drinks: one made with tequila or mezcal, and one without (using other spirits such as rum, whisky etc.).
I began with a Sour (£14) featuring Cupreta mezcal from the Sorrel & Hop section, as I was curious to see whether the herbiness of the plant would cut through, and sure enough, as soon as I took a sip of the lime green drink I was met with a tangy kick to the inside of my mouth followed by a refreshing, earthy aftertaste; it was delicious and fabulously smooth. My friend picked the Moutain Man (£15) from Carrot & Marigold which was a much sweeter drink with a mild taste of the vegetable and a creaminess from an egg white foam.
Before selecting our second tipple of the night, we ventured into the ‘antojitos’ menu, which translates as ‘little cravings’ and offers Santiago’s interpretation of Mexican street food.
I was excited to get my chops around the sardine taco (£7), not only because I was about to get all my essential oils for the day, but also because it was topped with an arbol chilli salsa which carried the saltiness of the fish effortlessly, complementing it with citrus notes. We found the wagyu beef tostada (£12) to be the standout dish though, with generous helpings of tender pink meat caressed with a sharp guajillo. My friend also enjoyed a quesadilla (£8), served with a creme fraiche that had the consistency of whipped butter.
To wash our snacks down, I went for the agave-less cocktail from the Sorrel & Hop duo, Fizz (£13), featuring El Destilado rum, vermouth and lager, while my friend opted for a mezcal-based Old Fashioned (£15) which had notes of corn and camomile, and, to quote ‘put the hairs on her chest’. I found the Fizz incredibly moreish and had to refrain from guzzling the fruity liquid that was, once again, a fantastic vibrant colour from the sorrel.
As I went to the toilet (side note: these were an absolute
delight - anywhere with frequently replaced hand towels means
business), my friend ordered us both signature mezcal margaritas as
it wouldn’t have been a true experience at KOL Mezcaleria
without them. And rightly so - these effortless sips were subtle in
smokiness and featured very coarse salt scattered around a quarter
of the rim in a delicate 'v' shape, which made the mineral less
overpowering and uplifted the agave's sweetness. Hunger-satisfied
and feeling a little alcohol coat wrapped around our bodies, we
left eager to return.
KOL Mezcaleria: Overall
Combining chic yet quirky decor, drinks that are ridiculously easy to consume and a curated Mexican food list, this bar stands out from the city's fine collection of drinking dens - especially if you're looking to impress for date night. We found tipples for £13 on the KOL Mezcaleria menu, which was a pleasant surprise given its acclaim, and the service was very warm. The buzzy atmosphere, extensive spirit collection on display and masks lacing the walls made us feel like we were transported to the other side of the world for the night, while our feet remained firmly on London soil.
Fancy a secret sip? Check out our guide to the best speakeasy bars in London.