Looking for a luxury tasting menu in Sheffield? I certainly was on my visit to the city. Jöro restaurant and sister hotel, House of Jöro, have long been on my must-visit list for exactly that purpose. The former is popular with diners far and wide thanks to its spot in the Michelin Guide, so the team began offering a place for people to rest their heads too. I went to find out if both lived up to their reputations.
As for first impressions? Walking into House of Jöro, Sheffield felt like a warm hug, thanks to a communal space on entry that was reminiscent of someone's home. It featured an open plan kitchen-diner that's used for chef's table experiences, all framed with deep grey-blues and quirky coffee table books. We'd chosen the king-sized bed and breakfast with an eight-course dinner (from £305 for two) package, which we seamlessly checked in for using the contact-free service. Our room followed a similar colour scheme to the rest of the boutique hotel, meaning it was equal parts slick and relaxing. A soak in the large, free-standing tub after the train journey was simply divine, so we were off to a flying start already. Another way this place wormed its way into my heart? Using food and fizz. The soft, handmade chocolate chip cookies and half-bottle of Nyetimber English sparkling wine in the room made our time before dinner extra special.
Now even more excited for the main event, we headed to the restaurant itself for our evening meal. This was handily included in our stay and we were able to add on the alcoholic drink pairings (£55 each) for good measure. The dimly-lit, yet inviting, space of Jöro spanned a few containers, making for an exclusive feel while still having atmosphere. Knowledgeable service had us diving straight in, quickly bringing out the multi-course menu's appetisers: croustade and sourdough covered in miso garlic butter. An onion flavour and rich cheddar made the former so moreish that it took restraint to not steal my partner's one and gobble it down myself. Once our appetites were well and truly whetted, it was time for the chawanmushi. This Japanese egg custard dish really took me by surprise - creamy and silky without being too set, while perfectly balanced with salty mussels and broccoli. Bischöfliche Weinguter Trier Riesling brought a refreshing mix of acidity and apple to complement the food.
Our Cacio e Pepe - unique in that the tagliatelle was made from celariac - saw fruity peppercorns and wild garlic oil offset by a pickled truffle tapenade. This was served alongside Birra Baladin Wayan, a hazy Saison rarely seen on tasting menus, which cleansed the palate between bites. The seaweed-cured haddock crudo came next, surrounded by a pea daishi, green raddish and sancho pepper leaf. While certainly fresh, it was perhaps a little on the grassy side for my taste. Although the accompanying Davenport Horsmonden dry white continued the trend of an impressive Jöro Sheffield drinks menu, thanks to hints of flora and peach. Having already been blown away by the innovation so far, I was staggered by what came next: nutty white BBQ asparagus covered in chicken wing butter and smoked egg yolk sauce. A vegetable has never tasted this good, nor been this rich. If there was ever a time to lick your plate clean, this would've been it. However, a glass of Barrero Manzanilla Gabriela didn't change my mind about not liking sherry.
Next, another favourite of the night: fjord trout. A combo of Alexander sauce, Japanese rice crispy and a slight wasabi punch, this one hit the full spectrum of flavours - from spicy to earthy, salty and slightly acidic. The gorgeous Ameztoi Rubentis rose washed it down with vibrant red berry too. Boasting both tender saddle and shoulder, our plate of Texel cross lamb was definitely the most filling of the night. It was equally impressive on the taste front, with a kampot pepper gravy, mint gel, wild garlic and the softest English muffin to mop up. What better to accompany than a spicy, blackcurrant-laced red? The restaurant's very own blend of Grenache and Syrah, cheekily named F*ck, saw to that.
For our first dip into sweet stuff, the goat cheese ice cream definitely delivered. By combining with savoury elements too - think thyme, lemon, and dehydrated (and then rehydrated) beetroot - it balanced tart, creamy, earthy and herbaceous flavours. Having never enjoyed dessert wine in the past, I was pleasantly surprised to love the Cantina Di Negrar Recioto Della Valpolicella alongside this dish. After deciding that 'pre-dessert', as our server called this course, should definitely become a thing everywhere, we happily moved onto the proper pud - a lovely little rhubarb number. There was a pretty pink circle of meringue to break before we reached the luscious vanilla custard, sharp fruit and kick of ginger below. Tatenokawa Kodakara Nanko umeshu was such a dangerously drinkable plum sake to sip throughout the course and I'll have to find myself a bottle to keep at home. Swoon-worthy doesn't even cover this pairing .
Following a refreshing night's sleep, it was time for House of Jöro's final treat. Breakfast consisted of everything from pressed apple juice to homemade miso banana bread, soda bread slathered in freshly cultured butter and the softest cured trout with creme fraiche. Somerset cheese and Spanish ham completed the savoury offering, while I eagerly gobbled down the baked yoghurt with mixed berry and maple oats too. A stellar experience all round? You betcha.
The DesignMyNight Digest
Almost every bite of the eight courses we had here was one of those 'wow' moments; the throw your head back and hum in appreciation kind. It's an injustice that there's no Jöro Sheffield Michelin star yet. It wasn't just the food that astounded either, as the drinks presented something new at each turn too. A world away from your standard wine flights, they covered ale, whites, reds, rose, sake and more all in one sitting. The icing on the cake? House of Jöro, which makes visiting this restaurant from anywhere across the UK an absolute pleasure.
💰 The damage: £415 for B&B and an eight-course dinner with drink pairings. 📍 The location: Krynkl at 294 Shalesmoore and Palatine Gardens on 40 Malinda Street. 👌 Perfect for: Innovative dishes and a home-from-home hotel. ⭐ Need to know: There are also five and ten-course options at the restaurant. |
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